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Looking at my reflection, I seem to have on huge gilded pantaloons, visible exclusively in my view. Children play in a stone basin acting as sea nymphs, and in the next room sits a talking pea in a showcase, beside a towering mound of mattresses. It represents the world of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), among the 1800s highly cherished authors. I’m in the city of Odense, located on the island of Fyn in the southern part of this Nordic country, to discover the author's lasting influence in his home town a century and a half after his death, and to find a couple of fairytales of my own.

The Exhibition: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the local exhibition space honoring the writer, featuring his original residence. A curator explains that in past designs of the museum there was scant attention on his fairytales. His personal history was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For tourists who visit the city seeking narrative enchantment, it was not quite enough.

The renovation of the city center, diverting a primary street, provided the opportunity to rethink how the local celebrity could be celebrated. An international design contest gave the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the project, with the innovative curatorial vision at the center of the structure. The unique wooden museum with interwoven spiral spaces launched to much acclaim in 2021. “Our goal was to create a space where we don’t talk about the writer, but we communicate similarly to Andersen: with comedy, irony and outlook,” notes the representative. The landscape design take this approach: “The outdoor area for wanderers and for colossal creatures, it’s designed to give you a sense of smallness,” he notes, a challenge achieved by strategic landscaping, manipulating verticality, proportion and multiple meandering routes in a deceptively small space.

Andersen's Impact

The author penned multiple autobiographies and frequently changed his story. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy to heart; typically the opinions of his companions or fragments of correspondence are displayed to subtly challenge the writer's personal account of events. “The author is the guide, but his account isn't always accurate,” explains the expert. The result is a compelling rapid journey of his personal story and work, mental approaches and best-loved tales. It’s thought-provoking and playful, for grown-ups and youngsters, with a bonus lower-level fantasy realm, Ville Vau, for the children.

Discovering the City

In the real world, the small city of this Danish city is charming, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes finished in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the street signals feature the writer with his distinctive formal headwear, brass footprints provide a no-cost Andersen walking tour, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this focus peaks with the annual HC Andersen festival, which honors the writer's impact through art, movement, theatre and musical performances.

Recently, the multi-day celebration had hundreds of events, the majority were free. As I explore the city, I come across artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an Andersen lookalike sharing tales. I experience contemporary performances and observe an remarkable late-night performance featuring acrobatic dancers lowering from the town hall and hanging from a construction equipment. Still to come in the coming months are lectures, creative sessions for all ages and, extending the narrative tradition beyond Andersen, the city’s annual wonder event.

All good enchanted locations deserve a fortress, and this region boasts 123 castles and stately homes across the island

Biking Adventures

As in other Danish regions, cycles are the perfect means to navigate in the city and a “bike path” winds through the city centre. Starting at my accommodation, I cycle to the free port-side aquatic facility, then out of town for a route around the nearby islet, a compact territory joined by a bridge to the larger island. Local inhabitants have outdoor meals here after work, or enjoy a quiet hour angling, paddleboarding or swimming.

Returning to Odense, I eat at the themed restaurant, where the menu is inspired by Andersen themes and narratives. The literary work the patriotic piece appears when I visit, and proprietor the host recites passages, rendered in English, as he serves every dish. This is a practice frequent in my visit, the local residents love a yarn and it feels as though narrating is constantly available here.

Manor House Visits

All good enchanted locations need a palace, and the island features over a hundred manors and stately homes across the island. Going on excursions from town, I tour Egeskov Castle, Europe’s best-preserved moated palace. Despite parts are available for tours, the castle is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his partner, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I contemplate if she might sense a small legume through a stack of {mattresses